Naturally, I’m considering of Shakespeare’s play whereas the ferry approaches Helsingør’s Kronborg Citadel (Elsinore). The ocean is frothing with Nice Cormorant and Herring Gull, with greater than 100 birds diving into the water. What’s that? A fin, one other one. There are Harbour Porpoises proper subsequent to the ferry! They’re most likely trying to find herring or another hapless little fish. Overcome with awe, I flip to Jesus…
… and I hand him my binoculars. He will get a very good look of the little whales too, however everyone else on the ferry is seemingly unaware of the spectacle. Don’t folks see what’s round them anymore? And the way come I’m touring with Jesus?
I left you simply earlier than the Swedish wedding ceremony final time, so let’s choose up the story there. It’s the morning of the marriage ceremony and I’m up at dawn. Which is frightfully early in Sweden’s summer time. My future for at the moment is Kullaberg Nature Reserve. Kullaberg or Kullen are the synonyms I’ve come throughout on varied web sites. To stick with The Bard, a rose by every other identify would odor as candy. Kullaberg Nature Reserve, or the eBird hotspot location Kullen, is a superb mixture of cliffs, sea, seashores, rocky shore and forests.
I spent a while within the reserve yesterday afternoon to search out out the place to go and never waste time getting misplaced or wandering round aimlessly. I already know that for sea-watching I have to go to the lighthouse, stroll down on the right-hand facet following the signal Silvergrottan to the somewhat luxurious viewing platform on the tip of the cape.
So it’s this morning. I park the automotive and stroll by means of a cacophony of chicken track to the point of view. All of the now acquainted Swedish songbirds may be heard loud and clear. Wren, Frequent Redstart, Chaffinch, Blackcap, Icterine Warbler, Mick Jagger. Sure, Sir Mick’s “Happy to satisfy you” rings from above: Frequent Rosefinch, considered one of my targets. I spend the following 45 minutes strolling across the tree from which Mick is singing however simply can’t discover the chicken. And the ocean is ready, so reluctantly I hand over (for now) and stroll on.
The platform has one well-equipped occupant once I arrive. That’s promising, however the sea is flat, which signifies that dynamic hovering is inconceivable. That guidelines out Manx Shearwater, Fulmar or Skua. Whereas I proceed sea-watching for Black Guillemot and Eider my Swedish co-birder retains trying on the cliff behind us.
I’m considering “that’s odd”, however he does have a degree – throughout our surveillance we’re seeing dozens of passerines within the cliffside shrubs. I now begin following his gaze – looks as if a smart factor to do. Frequent Whitethroat, Lesser Whitethroat, Linnet, Lesser Redpoll, Eurasian Bullfinch and White Wagtail are common, after which there’s a Eurasian Passion fly-by. I hear the Rosefinch once more however fail to notice it in opposition to the sky, so my luck hasn’t modified. In fact, nemesis no extra, a Eurasian Bullfinch male is as clear as may be in opposition to the identical sky.
After a few hours with out new sightings I head again to the forest. Time for an additional go on the Rosefinch. It takes me lower than 5 minutes to search out him – fortunately singing how happy he’s to satisfy me. Towards the daylight, with none seen color… No worries, I’ll stroll to the opposite facet of the tree and see the chicken with the solar in my again. However the place’s the chicken? Again down once more to pinpoint it, again up for the sunshine, nothing. Rinse and repeat many instances… The peak distinction between the 2 positions is obstructing the view I want. It’s there. I’ve seen it, I’ve recognized it, however I nonetheless really feel disillusioned sufficient to not “tick the field” on this lifer. I sit down on the picnic tables additional up, seize my breakfast from the automotive and whereas consuming a banana take into account my choices. Listening to nothing particular, I determine to walk into the forest and after quite a lot of Icterine Warblers (imitating a variety of birds – think about a Greenshank in a tree) I encounter one other Frequent Rosefinch. In full mild, completely gorgeously crimson. While you least count on it… Some “ticks” are simply a lot extra satisfying than others.
Time flies when birding and now I must be driving again post-haste from Kullaberg to be in time for the marriage ceremony. The Swedish countryside is dotted with indicators warning of crossing elk/moose/deer. As a child I all the time felt the pang of disappointment as a result of animals would simply by no means leap elegantly throughout the street just like the signal clearly promised. As an grownup I learnt the indicators in Africa with leaping Kudu are extra truthful – I’ve seen that kind of showjumping occur a number of instances. However in Europe, nothing. Nonetheless, Sweden could also be totally different in any case. Whereas dashing again, I witness a automotive slam right into a Roe Deer simply after one such street signal. A promise being saved with vital harm to the automotive and what gave the impression to be no vital accidents, thankfully. Heed these indicators in Sweden – the Swedes honour their phrase!
Even after having slowed down, I arrive on the ceremony with time to spare and in entrance of Mörarp’s quaint little church I meet Jesus. Seems he’s a good friend of the bride, and from Monterrey in Mexico. We chat and conform to drive collectively to Copenhagen the following day at midday. The mass begins, the social gathering follows, and the remaining is historical past. What occurs in Mörarp, stays in Mörarp. Let me simply say that Swedish indicators must be learn fastidiously earlier than you draw the unsuitable conclusion and get arrested.
As we are going to solely drive to Copenhagen within the afternoon, the morning after the social gathering affords one last birding alternative. The closest hotspot is Harlapps Dammar. Following the directions it’s simple to search out, however be aware that the signal when coming from the south is hidden behind the bushes. In the event you miss the turn-off on the yellowish home on the fitting, U-turn on the railway line and return. The signal on the alternative facet of the street is evident to see.
The location consists of the revitalised wastewater therapy ponds of an deserted sugar mill with shrubs and small patches of forest. As all over the place in Sweden, the paths, the hides, the platform: it’s all splendidly designed and well-maintained. An Osprey and Skåne County’s image Pink Kite circle round one another within the sky. There’s a Frequent Goldeneye mom with ducklets in tow, Pink-necked Grebe, Mute Swan additionally with younger, all of the reed skulkers you may think about. I even get to see one other Thrush Nightingale.
Then, reluctantly, I pack up and head for Helsingborg, choose up Jesus and head for the Copenhagen airport. To be (again) or to not be, it’s not a query.