After I grew up within the seventies we didn’t have world warming, we had world cooling (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Global_cooling). Consequently, the summer season climate was terrible, at all times. Steady drizzle, gales and the lead-grey sky merging seamlessly with the tarmac of the roads. Surrounded by damp greyness, we might attempt to take pleasure in our Dutch summer season holidays. My Dad had nothing to throw at this distress however unfounded optimism: “I can see it clearing up any time now”. My recommendation to local weather deniers: why deny a superb factor – sing the praises of local weather change… However, due to a number of CO2, summers are nice now and I spent a type of summers on the island of São Tomé.
Previously a Portuguese colony, now with the island of Principe a proudly unbiased nation within the Gulf of Guinee. I used to be drawn to São Tomé due to the massive variety of birds named after the island, and particularly the São Tomé Grosbeak. This chook had been extinct for greater than a century earlier than it was rediscovered – a Lazarus species! Plus, there are extra endemics on São Tomé than on the Galapagos.
My chosen information was the gentleman who claims to have rediscovered the grosbeak – Antonio Alberto. Though his detractors would say he was two years’ outdated when that occurred he’s undeniably a superb information. He has exceptional bush abilities and as a former poacher he is aware of the place all of the birds are that he didn’t eat. I made contact (+239 995 six one six two) and paid half the price upfront. A couple of weeks later I obtained a WhatsApp from Antonio telling me his good friend’s automotive had damaged down and he wanted more cash upfront. Not even bothering to query the logic of the request I made one other journey to Western Union and voilá. For sure, I didn’t inform my spouse about any of those monetary transactions, and I’ll have been fairly scarce on particulars general. Omission, the key to an extended and blissful marriage.
We flew to São Tomé, acquired by passport management with superb pace and checked within the resort the place my spouse can be having fun with the spa and pool whereas I might be tenting within the rain forest. Antonio confirmed up as agreed and we have been off to Monte Carmo within the Parque Pure Obô de São Tomé. Entry to Monte Carmo is thru a 2,500 ha oil palm plantation. The palm oil firm’s web site may be very constructive in regards to the socio-economic advantages for the native inhabitants however the individuals we met have been adamant about not being paid a dwelling wage. The reality might be someplace within the center, however we’ll by no means know for the reason that locals can’t afford a shiny web site. As soon as we crossed the park border it began to rain. I regarded again on the oil palm plantation simply behind the park boundary marker and the solar was nonetheless shining there. The distinction in micro-climate between the plantation and the rainforest couldn’t have been clearer. The plantation owes the rainforest, that’s for certain.
And up we went. The mountain is roofed with granite boulders, very slippery mud, and tangles so I fell loads within the mud. Antonio didn’t, not even one well mannered slip to make me really feel much less inept. I might have been very cross with him if this man weren’t going to indicate me birds… Sensing my irrational feelings Antonio identified the São Tomé Ibis simply behind us and all was forgiven. Such a beautiful individual! We made camp on the “roça” – the ruins of a cocoa plantation home, ate a one-pot meal flushed away with palm wine, conversed with a São Tomé Scops-Owl and slept like logs whereas the São Tomé Free-tailed Bats flew throughout us.
It actually by no means stopped raining within the two days and one night time on the mountain. I used to be soaking moist – there even was water behind my ear drums – however the birds have been superb. Two of the final 40 Newton’s Fiscals, loads São Tomé Oriole, Large Sunbird, São Tomé Brief-tail – just about each goal chook, besides the Lazarus. After a miserable stroll again by the birdless palm plantation with only one (undoubtedly company-sponsored) São Tomé Weaver we have been picked up by Antonio’s good friend who drove us again to Santana in his putting canary-coloured automotive.
Any automotive known as Jesus was sure to maintain us on the straight and slim. However whereas we did go straight, the slim street determined in any other case and made a curve. We slammed right into a tree however miraculously no person was damage, and the automotive continued to be roadworthy. Roadworthiness is outlined within the insurance coverage coverage smallprint as “in a position to drive off however extreme structural harm”. Safely again within the resort I jumped within the pool to dry, had a chilly one and informed my spouse in regards to the adventures within the nationwide park. She simply shook her head in disbelief (?), despair (?), pity (?). I neglected the accident from my gripping yarn – no want so as to add “fear” to this record of feelings (omission etcetera, see above).
On my last day with Antonio we got down to the Nationwide Park of Obô once more however now adopted the Lagoa Amélia path to search for the São Tomé Grosbeak. That is the place the place Antonio had rediscovered the chook and after having heard grosbeaks calling all through the earlier days, my expectations have been excessive. I continued falling flat within the mud on the way in which up so Antonio made me a strolling stick. I nonetheless fell loads however now had a stick to carry on to – I do imagine I regarded extra dignified in consequence. Alas, the mountain was lined in a thick low-hanging cloud with nearly no visibility. We walked for hours to every one in all Antonio’s favorite spots and located nothing. A poorly seen São Tomé Bronze-naped Pigeon flew up, disappeared into the mists and we have been surrounded by an eery silence as soon as extra. Antonio was about to surrender however for some motive I considered Dad. “Give it a minute, I can see it clearing up any time now”, I shouted to Antonio. After which, miraculously, the cloud lifted for only a minute and in that minute we noticed it: a chunky little brown chook with a ridiculously giant beak, consuming a flower bud.